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Charging system hit or miss?

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  • #16
    Well shit if leaving the fuse out fixes it , it certainly sounds like you got a dead short drawing all the available power.. A 5 amp fuse could pass almost 60 watts before blowing a 10 could pass almost 120 watts. Power in watts = volts X amps

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    • #17
      well it was a 10a fuse. i also cant be sure that it was the solution. the first battery swap along the road on the way up to ohio got me several hundred miles and checked out fine once we made it to camp and put a voltmeter on it the following morning and that was with the tail light still working, same with the second battery swap. it was somewhere along the line after putting in the second battery on the way home that it popped the fuses, but again it checked fine on a voltmeter at the same time while replacing fuses. fucking mystery machine.

      i love how most of my issues end up being some of the weirdest gremlins

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      • #18
        Originally posted by TheBCB View Post
        I always update shovels to the 32a Evo charging system with either the Cycle Electrics or Drag Specialties kit. I have yet to have an issue with either and they work far more reliably. Drag Specialties has two lines they offer for electrical components. Their standard line is imported and the "Premium" line is USA made. I always go premium whenever possible.
        so any particular reason or any possible problems that could arise from going with a 32a on a minimal electric bike? no starter at all, just the 2 lights and electric ignition. ready to purchase, just want to make sure im thoroughly informed and read up on everything. just want to dummy proof this heap as best as i can, lol, shovelhead......nope.

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        • #19
          I've done it on kick only bikes with LED lights and never had an issue.

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          • troubledhead
            troubledhead commented
            Editing a comment
            was the seperate shim kit necessary? im assuming so
            Last edited by troubledhead; 08-28-2018, 01:28 AM.

        • #20
          Any input on the breaker situation? Should I just pull it out and hardline to the battery to eliminate one extra “moving part” from the system?

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          • #21
            Originally posted by troubledhead View Post
            Any input on the breaker situation? Should I just pull it out and hardline to the battery to eliminate one extra “moving part” from the system?
            Negative ghost rider. I know my opinion differs from a lot of other members in here on the "circuit breaker vs fuse" argument but you need something there to protect the circuit. Personally, I would put a new 30A breaker in and mount it as close to the battery but as far away from high heat areas as possible. If you're not digging the functionality of the breaker, go with a 30A maxi fuse.

            it's okay to hardwire you regulator to the stator but never for any reason hardwire your regulator directly to your battery.

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            • troubledhead
              troubledhead commented
              Editing a comment
              yeh was never an issue to make me dislike the situation, had it there for safety sake and peace of mind. just wondering about minimizing even more if possible but dont want to create more issues of the major variety in the process. i guess ill just throw a new one in there just to do it when i swap it all over. have the new 32a kit sitting at the house waiting for install.

          • #22
            Did you go with the Drag kit or Cycle Electrics?

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            • troubledhead
              troubledhead commented
              Editing a comment
              cycle electric, went on with the buy once cry once thought. rather spend a few extra and get something solid in that department. want as much reliability as possible.

          • #23
            Okay, measure and compare the thickness of your CE rotor to your take off. You may need go shim the drive sprocket/pulley to maintain the correct primary drive alignment. If you don't have an accurate way to measure the thicknesses of the rotors, then you'll just have to assemble the primary drive and check alignment per the manual.

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